Friday, January 31, 2025

Starting the new year at Geyikbayiri

It has been a while since I could not post. Still no structured training, but I could do some visits to Geyikbayiri before and after the new year's day. Finally, I could make a couple of visits to Barek mountain for bouldering just before the temps dropped to freezing levels. All in all, here's the stories of the routes I climbed since my last post in Geyikbayiri:

Boys are back in town 7c - Mevlana

After climbing Belladona 7c+, I looked at Boys are back in town 7c in Mevlana sector in Geyikbayiri. Unlike overwhelmingly long routes in the sector, this one was around 25 meters. The moves in the crux was quite hard to figure out for me. As it is the case most of the time, I had to solve the beta myself. It did not work out in the first session, but after I came back to Geyikbayiri on new years day to stay for 3 weeks, this was the first hardish route I climbed. 

There was a clip in the midst of the crux, and making that clip just a few moves later helped a lot to conserve my energy. I got that clue from Berk Keloglu while we were chatting spontaneously in Sun climbing. Thanks bro!..

By the way, the story behind the name of the route is: After Ozturk and Tafa have been away from Geyikbayiri for a long time, this one was the first route they opened after they came to Geyik. You guys find amazing route names. Well done. I just miss seeing you together. 


Jose Bove - 7b+

Sevda and Burak was climbing in Akdeniz Sector, and I could have a chance to join them on a couple of sessions. I sent this route in my first day in the sector. During my first try, I could not even solve the beta for the crux, and just gave up. In the second try, I just tried what felt possible, but it did not work out. However, I could find a toe hook beta which then worked great for me. The third try was quite an easy send then. Using other betas, the route could feel much much harder for me. 


Metallica - 8a

After sending Jose Bove, I wanted to try Metallica. A couple from Russia were trying the route, and along with Bura and them, I could finalize the beta that could work for me. Again, the first couple of tries were quite desperate, but the route unwinded finally. I was searching for some delicate - tricky knee bars when Burak just discovered that the move on the lower crux was possible with a straight forward twist lock. 

The crux on the upper part was more problematic for me since it involved a quite reachy move. Anyways, after some time, I returned there with Atilla, and in my first try, I passed the lower crux, but fell at the upper reachy move (as I guessed). Then, without actually changing any beta, I rested for some time and made a second try. This time, although I was more tired, I was much more confident on that long move. I could somehow tackle that move, and get past through the upper crux, too. The last third of the route is also tricky, and I was happy to have refined moves during my first try in the day. Otherwise, I am pretty sure I could fall there, too :)

Anyways, the route came in a total of two sessions, and in the second try of the second session. I was not expecting it to be this quick. Happy!...


Dio - 7b+ (flash)

After sending Metallica, we climbed with Gokhan Sifan and Kemal in Mevlana. It was quite a rainy and wet day, but we were motivated enough to stay late on the rocks! After eyeing on the long routes in Mevlana, I said.. f..k it.. I need something shorter. Tafa and Selo were climbing in Barbarossa, so we also wanted to meet them. On our way to Barbarossa, I wanted to have a look at Dio, 7b+. Last year, I climbed its cousin: Lemmy 7b+, which is in the same cave. Dio is on the left, Lemmy is on the right. Both lines are set by one of my favorite route setter: Volkan Ozkan. 

I was amazed when I saw that Ali (Agcal) was there, and I could have a chance to watch him while he walked the route :) He sprayed me with amazing delicious beta, and left the quickdraws so that I can give a nice flash try. And it worked well: I could climb the route on my first try. 

Last year, Lemmy felt more difficult to me. But that was last year. But still, I feel like this one is more forgiving. Anyhow, that was a great day, great climbing with Gokhan, Kemal and Ali. Thanks bros. 


Had a look at an 8b: Savasma Sevis: I'll be back

During my last days in Geyik, I just wanted to have a look at one of the 8b's in Akdeniz sector. I hang-dogged the crux section of this route. The crux is at the beginning. The first 3 clips are quite easy, but then comes the two clips of crux section. I believe the route is easier after that, but it still looks hard. 

I could at least see what I need to improve to make the moves on such a route. Well, I need power, precision and persistence. It's hard for sure, but it did not feel like something from another world. Will definitely work more on longish powerful moves on pinches to get prepared for this. On the other hand, the season for this route is not very long. You need to try this in winter since the sector faces south, and is always under bright sunshine. 

Tried Otuzbir 7c, Anatolia - will be back..

We spent the last day in Anatolia with Atilla. But that apparently was not the best decision. The weather was too sunny, and even in this winter day, rock was way too slippery. I was literally wasted while I tried to figure the beta for this long 7c in Anatolia. When the sun went down, I could make a second try, and I was looking surprisingly good on that. The lack of sun really made a difference. Still, that was not enough to get past the final difficulty on the last couple of bolts. I was pumped as hell, and all failed on that. 

This route saw quite many ascents lately, but I must admit that although it is a homogeneous route having many small cruxes, it is definitely not easy. But this route also made me remember something else: I need to get used to the style of climbing in Anatolia sector to climb something hard. I mean, climbing in Akdeniz and Mevlana for some 3 weeks, and then appearing on Anatolia to climb a 7c in one day... Well, that is hard for me for sure. I believe to climb something hard in this sector, I should dedicate some more sessions so that I can get used to the style of climbing in this sector. 


No climbing photos from this trip. But I here are some photos from the new year's party, times in Konyaalti, and in Alanya with Kemal: 










Rocklands: A bitter - sweet intro to the bouldering Mecca

Towards the end of this last winter, I was already hearing some talks about a strong crew from Turkiye going to Rocklands this July. When I ...