Coldest day (yet) on Barek Mountain

This week, we were quite hesitant about going for bouldering at Barek mountain. The weather report was patches of sun mixed with a maximum of 6 degrees celsius. We weren't sure if it would be windy or not. Anyhow, since Oguz was visiting home from Barcelona and we wanted to have a shot to show him the area and maybe climb some boulders. 

Without arranging exact time, we arrived on the place at the same time with Arda, Oguz, Mert, Yesim, Erkin, Me, Bora and Elif. Well done :) 

Warm up at Masa Kaya & Repeat Katil II, 7A+

We warmed up in Masa kaya with classic ones. The weather was quite warm without any wind. We also had another look at Katil II - 7A+ which - to my surprise - I could do a repeat ascent quickly. That was the best friction I felt on that route. That's the difference of winter weather I guess. 

Warmp-up & chit-chat at Masa Kaya

Bora on the one of the crimpy problems

Men at work... 

Super Ego, 7A+ at T9 - Hayde block

After warming up at Masa kaya, we went to T9 with Erkin as folks headed to Dombisot. There  was a lot more show there. It was even hard to find some clean path to the blocks without snow. The wind was quite stronger which resulted quite chilly conditions in which you could not feel your hands after some seconds. 

We wanted to setup an anchor to look at the upper section of the block, since it was quite high. 

The smallest rock on top of the block was the easiest to wrap a sling around (the one on the right of the anchor in the photo below) however, it was looking quite unattached, so we just skipped it. The block that we setup the anchor was more grounded, however it required a much more longer sling. So, we added 5-6 slings together to make a longer one + we used two cams to back it up from a crack behind the rock. 

After playing around using the rope, we could come up with a solution for the tricky upper part of the problem. However, we were already feeling too cold, and I was about to say "ok, this was a good day, at least we saw the line, let's get our assess off this ice world". But at the same time, my fingers were warm enough to have a couple of tries, so we said "heck.. let's just give a couple of desperate goes and see how it pays off". 

My first try went surprisingly good. I could even reach the gaston flake with my left hand, but I forgot the good horizontal crimp to the right of that gaston and fell. At least the wind was not very strong under a block to the left, so we could wait there in between the tries.

In the second try, I took off my fleece. I wanted to climb only with a t-shirt to be able to move better. I just needed that fight mode, and did not care how much cold it would feel at all... This time, I could take the gaston, and then compose myself up to go for the crimp on the right. There I was... after a couple of moves later, I just replayed what I figured out for the upper part. This time however, the left pinch crimp felt much weaker when coming from below. But I could somehow accept the holds and move up. Did not think of falling, but I knew it would be a bad situation if some foot pops up. I guess having Erkin on the spot gave me the such a confidence. 

Did it... Did not expect it to be this quick. It was freezing cold without a feeling on the fingers. But yeah, the friction was stellar. 

We met in Ankara and went to one of the ciger sis restaurants to have a nice dinner. But man... I just could not believe how crowded that place was...  We thought how many cows were killed for running this restaurant for just one day... Well, it's sad... At these times, my pro vegan thoughts deepen more. I eat meat from time to time, like once a month or so... But deep inside, I really feel there's something wrong with this meat industry... heck.. 

Snow all around in T9 sector

Our anchor on top of Hayde block

Erkin descending to have a look at the problem

Me trying to figure out upper parts of Super Ego, 7A+ (Photo: Erkin Cakmak)

New year's first boulders at Barek Mountain

After returning home from Geyikbayiri, I had two visits to Barek Mountain at the weekends. In the first visit, I climbed with Fikret, and in the second one I climbed with Erkin. Both days were great, but both Erkin and I were amazed on how much we climbed on the second one. That was a terrific day which does not happen all the time... 

Please refer to 27crags.com for routes in Barek mountain. 

Bir Zamanlar Anadoluda - Sit start - 6C+

This one is in the Tarla road block in Barek mountain. The problem starts with a sloper crimp for the left hand and good a hold for the right hand. Then I went to another crimp with the right hand. This is the hardest move on the problem, however, the rest is also sustained. I fell almost from the top on my last try before I sent it. 

Tarla Road - Sit, 6C

Fikret's solution on this one was a lot harder, but apparently, I found an easier beta by starting by a heel hook to the good crimp on the left of the block. I guess this beta makes it a full grade easier. 

Replikas, 7A - (feels more like 6C+)

We went to this problem with Fikret, and to my surprise, I could also flash it right after Fikret. Landing looked awful, so, retreating from the top out was not an option for me :) But, I honestly think that the grade is softer than 7A. It feels more like 6C+.

Surprise 7A (feels more like 6C+)

I was a bit anxious about this boulder, feeling like it had a long move, and it is pretty high. We went to this one with Erkin after warming up on Tarla road block. We watched some videos from previous sends by Zorbey. I started by skipping the first hard - long move and climbed the top out to gain a bit more confidence, and that strategy worked quite well. Surprisingly, the first move was not very hard for both of us. I sent the route in a couple of tries, and Erkin flashed it right after me. We both thought the route felt easier than 7A with our beta. 

For the starting move, there were two alternatives for the right hand. We used the crimp which is to the left. You can take this hold like a pinch, and it helps a lot to keep the body closer to the rock. For the left hand, there is a knob like small round feature on the rock. You can't really hold it, it's just to stabilize the body and gain some more upward pull.. Then we went with the left hand to the best hold on the upper left. The hold is good, but it might need some care to land on a grip with optimum position. The rest is high, but easy, especially if you watch the movie from Emre. 

Dadaruhi 7A+, Dadaruhi sit 7B

Ok. this is one of the hardest ones in Barek Mountain as of now. It is a tall block. But in the first session we had with Fikret, I could find the beta that could work for me, and Fikret climbed it in that session. In the second session with Erkin, after climbing Surprise we decided to work on this with Erkin. The boulder is in the shade, and first we thought it will be too cold there in this winter day. However, the weather was quite warm, and there was no wind, so we wanted to have a couple of tries. 

Once again, I started from the middle, and made the top out to gain some confidence, and shortly after that, I could do the standing version. Then, after resting for some time, in my next try, I could do the sit version as well. Wow... 

We set up an anchor and ropes so that Erkin can also have a look at the topout section. He then also sent the standing and sit versions after a short while. 

Dadaruhi sit - 7B

Happy sunny day!