Sunday, November 10, 2024

Bright - Cold Weekend on Barek Mountain

Sunset: New Block in T9 Sector

We were back at Barek mountain with Guner on Saturday. The sun was bright with no clouds, but the wind was quite high and chilly. We went to T9 sector to see what we can do. We decided to open some new blocks as a warm up, and found a new block that we called Sunset. 

Sunset block at T9 sector

After a few hours of playful discovery, the block became a very nice one to warm up, with 7 problems ranging from Fb 5 to 6C. The video is from Guner climbing "Crispy Crimp 6B": 


And this video is from "Dope Out 6C". 


Nimrod 7A+

We finished the other half of the day on a 7A+ opened recently by Bozkir folks: Nimrod. We were so focused on the route, so I forgot to take even a single photo there, but the problem looks like the following: 

Sit starts from a side-crimp with right hand, and an undercling for the left hand. Then a couple of moves with slopers, and a couple of jumps for me, with some weak heel hook. The top out was also quite tricky. When I first tried the problem on this day, it looked so far from my reach. Too hard. But it was quite magical that as I did more and more tries with some good rests in between, I could finally pull off the problem on the last minutes of sunlight. I guess this became the first 7A+ that I could climb in a single session in Barek mountain. 

There was a small rock crystal on the rock surface that we used for right heel hook, and it unfortunately it was broken before my final attempt. I think it makes the heel hook somewhat more tricky, but it still works. 

Kiddo: New Block near Skoptoma

The next day, we came back again. We were tired, but we still had some easier stuff on our todo lists, and maybe we could open another new block. When we arrived, Mert, Yesim and Nihat was already there, and they started opening a new block. In a couple of hours, we opened 4 new problems in this block. 

B.B. Kiddo is a very short, compact 6B+ that involves pulling on a sloper crimp, and then mantling over the lower of the block. This is the video from my first ascent: 



This is Hattori Hanzo 6A+ (FA by Nihat Candemir):



And finally, this is O-Ren Ishii 6C:


Dombisot 7A

After spending some time on the Kiddo block, we went to Skoptoma. The weather was perfect for trying Dombisot. After a series of desperate attempts, I could finally to the stand start version which is 6C. For that, I had to micro-adjust my beta by using the upper side gaston on the right (thanks to Yesim), and using a higher foot for the left foot. 

I was already tired from yesterday, but the conditions were soo good, so I thought this should not be missed. After a few tries, I could also climb the sit start version which is 7A. Happy. 

Dombisot 7A (sit start version)

Dombisot 6C (Stand version crux move)

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