My mind was just stuck on this route since I left it on Saturday. On Monday, instead of spending my training time in the gym, I could arrange my things, and could go for a couple of hours to Barek mountain. The weather was a lot colder than I expected, and the wind was very strong. I only had some 2 hours to try the boulder, and I chose to warm up using the actual moves on the boulder. I first tried the top out part a couple of times to spare myself from the stress of being solo.
So, my expectation was: ok, I already figured out my beta the last time I was here, and now, I would only warm up, and put my fresh power into that one for a quick send. But the reality was not as I thought. Warming up alone was quite hard under this windy and chilly conditions, and when I finally could condition myself, after a few unsuccessful tries, I was pretty sure that there was something going on with my beta.
I was making a toe-hook with my left foot to the yellow mark in the photo below. However strong I tried to endure and squeeze the rock with my legs, when I released the left toe hook, I could not resist the pendulum effect, and I was instantly lying on the pads. So, after a moment of realization, I started searching for something else. Heel hooking to the red mark in the below photo was another option, but that was even harder, as it did not help a lot for reaching the next hold.
As I was trying to find something for my right foot, totally by coincidence, I could realize that I can indeed heel hook to somewhere in between (green mark in the above photo), and after some brushing, that place was perfect. It was nothing like a crimp or a big hold to heel hook onto, however, it was a big smooth surface with just a little fracture on it, and suddenly, it worked like a charm. The position of the heel hook was so perfect that the moves after that began to feel like a couple of grades easier.
At the moment I realized the beta, I was both happy, and a bit angry with myself. I just can't remember how many times I tried this move, just thinking that I was just not strong enough for it. For the move before that (going to the big pinch with right hand), I apparently did not change any beta, but just got a bit stronger and coordinated. But for this move, it was not working. Regardless of how many sessions I would spend on that, it would not improve. But this new beta... Oh man... I wish I was more experienced.. But on the other hand, experience probably comes as a result of these "experiences", right?
I was quite tired and wasted because of the previous 7-8 tries with the wrong beta. Anyways, after discovering the new beta, which is just some 20 centimeters shift of the heel hook, I could do the route on the very next try. In my video, you can actually see that I struggle more with the move before the heel hook, but the moves after the heel hook went a lot smoother.
My own adventure, with my own beta, with a top out that coincides with the beautiful sunset on this gorgeous Bozkir evening. Could it be better than that? I guess not...
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